D’Annunzio’s Nightwear and Jewelry on Display at Vittoriale Through September
“Dear little one, tonight wear the black and gold dress or the silver dress. Be beautiful. Ariel.” Thus Gabriele d’Annunzio wrote to pianist Luisa Bàccara on January 3, 1920. She obeyed. Like the others. Those garments, along with many others designed by the Poet for his “beautiful night owls,” remained hanging in the guest room wardrobes or in the Vittoriale’s wardrobe for over half a century. Since yesterday, they have returned to seduce at the Sottoteatro of the historic residence in Gardone Riviera. Garments “not meant for sleep, nighttime elegance at Vittoriale” on display for the first time until September 10.
Accessories and Brooches of d’Annunzio’s Women
Timeless seductions. Worn by Ida Rubinstein and Elena Sangro, as well as by unknown beauties of the Gardesana Riviera. But which every woman still today would want to possess. Black chiffon negligées for redheads, pastel-colored for the fairest skins. Elegant silk slip dresses by Biki or fishnet styles with gold and silver threads. Veils, laces, and provocative transparencies. Floral shawls, robes, and colorful bathrobes. And then bracelets, brooches, and belly necklaces, sketched by D’Annunzio himself as an esthete and later crafted by jewelers like Buccellati.
For all his women, the Poet, master of seduction, had a single thought. For each beauty, he kept in his wardrobe the garment that in the shadows of his alcove would make her irresistible. “But most importantly, it would reflect his ideal of woman,” says the president of Vittoriale, Annamaria Andreoli.
The Love Thought and the Women of d’Annunzio
The dominant thought in his love games? “To transfigure any woman into his woman, his femme fatale.” His instructions were clear. A faithful interpreter of the Poet’s desires was the Vittoriale’s French governess, Aélis Mazoyer. Her task was to make up, perfume, and dress his “beautiful night owls.” But also to instruct them in love games.
“Each one had to embody the most current version of femininity,” adds Paola Sorge, curator of the exhibition catalog. To adorn themselves with “belly necklaces,” and to smoke cigarettes with long ivory mouthpieces according to the fashion of the time. Before crossing the threshold of the bridal chamber, they would then parade through the Vittoriale’s rooms.” It was almost a ritual.
“… when she walks in front of the Michelangelo Prison smoking a cigarette, like a long bar counter, the twentieth century seems remote and imbued with the enchantment of the past.” But for D’Annunzio, the “luxury animal,” as he liked to define himself, the pleasure of beauty went beyond the pursuit of the ideal woman.
The Elegance of d’Annunzio
“The education of my spirit irresistibly draws me toward the purchase of beautiful things.” In his wardrobe, 300 silk shirts (he changed two a day), about a hundred dresses, fifty coats and overcoats. Equally many hats, robes, and pajamas. And yet 500 ties and 200 pairs of shoes.
“Ardens avaritia,” damn greed, he wrote in a booklet in August ’27 about his lavish spending. On display are some of the long dresses the Poet loved to wear in intimacy, robes, collars, and shoes. But also accessories of great value. For the first time on display, his ring with the eagle and the gold watch engraved with the phrase “not to sleep.”
The Reopening of the Park and the Exhibition
The Valletta Savia Park reopened yesterday to the public. The summer theater season was also inaugurated with the d’Annunzian show “Extraordinary Recital of the Martyrdom of Saint Sebastian.” The exhibition “Not to Sleep, Elegance at Vittoriale” is open daily from 10 am to 6 pm (closed on Mondays).
For information: tel. 0365/29.65.11; website www.vittoriale.it