Venetian Cuisine in Japan: Flavio Tagliaferro’s Cultural and Culinary Exchange
And they do two: this is the second time that Flavio Tagliaferro, chef of Incaffi, has been invited for an entire month in Japan to teach Venetian cuisine at the country’s most prestigious restaurants. “In this second experience,” Tagliaferro, who recently returned from his Japanese tour, explains, “I received confirmation of the interest it sparks among Japanese chefs practicing Italian cuisine—the culture linked to regional dishes, free from variations and superstructures resulting from French influence.”
Culinary Preferences in Japan
What does that mean in practical terms? It means that the Japanese are literally crazy about Valeggio tortellini, fish in saor or in sauce, potato gnocchi, bigoli with sardines, and Veronese traditional pinza. “They seek genuine, straightforward flavors, but presented in an impeccable manner,” explains Tagliaferro, “because the Japanese cultivate the taste for beauty as a kind of philosophy.”
Moreover, as is well known, the Japanese love raw meats. “In Japan,” Tagliaferro recounts, “tables have a real passion for fat, rawness, and beauty. They love highly fatty, tender meats, for which they breed particular cattle breeds, like Kobe beef, with classical music and massages using wooden combs. The result is astonishing: the beef is incredibly tender and very flavorful. Unfortunately, their price tag—converted into euros—is around half a million per kilogram.”
Having said that, it’s easy to imagine how much the classic carpaccio created by Cipriani was appreciated: Tagliaferro offered it according to the original recipe of the renowned Venetian restaurateur. Equally successful was the lemon-marinated horse meat, a typical Veronese dish. Fish, then, is the quintessential food for the Japanese, who obviously eat it raw. “The lacustrine version of carpaccio, made with marinated fish,” says the Gardesano chef, “matched perfectly with their taste.”
Veronese Traditions and Wines in Japan
In short, for the second year in a row, Flavio Tagliaferro has brought some of Garda’s flavors to the Eastern land. He also presented dishes based on chestnuts, inspired by the Monte Baldo tradition. Accompanying everything with Veronese wines. “As a pairing for my dishes,” says the chef of Incaffi, “the Bardolino Novello was served, which was released in Japan simultaneously with the Italian launch, along with Veronese wines from Lamberti and Bertani, which have always been very well received.”
Regarding wine, I must say I found excellent preparation and detailed, constant information about new trends and emerging realities. Italian wine and cuisine are now a fixture in Japan.” The fact is, in Japan, Italian cuisine is considered healthier compared to French cuisine. “And that is important,” says Tagliaferro, “because the restaurants are mostly frequented by women. All this suggests a bright future for our cuisine.”
The impression is confirmed by the fact that many young chefs want to pursue Italian cuisine and have enthusiastically followed Flavio Tagliaferro’s lessons.