Recently, the world of mountaineering celebrated the figure of Tita Piaz, known as the “Devil of the Dolomites,” a pioneer who marked a fundamental era in Dolomite climbing and the development of sport climbing. Born in 1879 in Pera di Fassa, Piaz is remembered for his technical innovations, including the invention of the double rope descent, which in 1906 allowed him to descend from the Campanile di Val Montanaia by an impressive 37 meters, setting a record. His audacity and rebellious spirit made him a controversial figure, often criticized by his contemporaries, but today he is recognized as one of the greatest mountaineers in history. His approach to climbing has influenced generations of climbers, and his legacy endures through the techniques that bear his name. Despite the challenges and criticism he faced, Tita Piaz left an indelible mark on the landscape of modern mountaineering. His literary works, such as “Half a Century of Mountaineering,” provide a glimpse into his life and innovative thinking, making him not only an extraordinary climber but also an important voice in mountain culture. Italian Version
Tita Piaz and Dolomites Climbing: Forgotten Legacy of Sport Climbing
