Madonna del Carmine Celebrations at San Felice del Benaco: Pilgrimages and History
As every year in July, celebrations are held for the Madonna del Carmine of San Felice del Benaco, “queen and patroness of Valtenesi”. The pilgrimages began on Thursday with parishioners from Portese, Soiano, and Campagna di Lonato. On Friday evening, at 8:30 PM, it was the turn of those from Maguzzano, Villanuova, Gavardo, Soprazocco, and Lonato.
Pilgrimages and Celebrations
Tomorrow, Monday, July 16, the pilgrimage will cover Raffa, Villa di Salò, Fasano, Gaino, Maderno, Toscolano, and Roè Volciano. Tuesday will include Paitone, Calvagese, Mocasina, Carzago, Bedizzole, S.Vito, Prevalle, S. Zenone, and Puegnago. On Wednesday the 18th, Desenzano (Duomo, S. Angela Merici, S. Giuseppe, S. Zeno, S. Martino della Battaglia, Scoperta), Rivoltella, Sirmione, Lugana, Moniga, and Gardone Riviera.
Thursday will serve the faithful from Motteggiana, Sailetto (Mantova), Manerba, Polpenazze, Campoverde, and Salò. Friday will include Padenghe, Colombare, Pozzolengo, Sabbio Chiese, and S. Giovanna Antida. The highlight is Saturday the 21st, with the solemn procession from the sanctuary to the parish church. The statue of the Madonna is carried on the shoulders.
The following day, Sunday, at 10 AM, a solemn mass will be held at the sanctuary with the singers of Valtenesi, directed by maestro Valerio Bertolotti. At 9 PM, a processional march will follow in the opposite direction. Leading will be monsignor Andrea Veggio, auxiliary bishop of Verona, originally from Manerba, and the band Sinus Felix, led by Giorgio Giacomini.
History and Legend
On Monday the 23rd, a day of thanksgiving is celebrated for the living and deceased benefactors. The sanctuary of S. Felice was built in 1452. Its original name, “Santa Maria delle Grazie,” was later amended to include “Madonna del Carmine,” reflecting the presence of the Discalced Carmelites.
Locally, it was called “Maria delle Cisterne,” due to the abundance of springs in the area. The numerous ex-votos and 15th-century frescoes suggest that the church’s construction was motivated by invasion wars, factional struggles, dominance among local lords, as well as plagues and famines.
This explains the presence of figures of saints invoked against infectious diseases (Sebastian, Rocco, Anthony the Abbot, Biagio, and others). Adjacent to the church was the convent. The Gonzaga family from Mantua (Prince Ludovico II and his son Francesco, who became a cardinal at just 17) were the main patrons.
In the second half of the 18th century, soldiers of the Venetian Republic, then in severe financial crisis, looted furnishings, vases, silverware, and household items. Their plea to the Most Serene Senate to recover what was stolen remained unanswered.
Over the years, the monastery was (partially) destroyed and, during wartime, repurposed as a barracks or horse stall. Meanwhile, the church was turned into a hospital for the wounded. The walls were repeatedly whitewashed with lime and milk for disinfection.
In June 1866, volunteers from Garibaldi’s ranks, coming from southern Italy, arrived; they later fought in the battles of Monte Suello (July 3) and Bezzecca (on the 21st). In August 1946, the first restoration works were undertaken, promoted by the parish priest Don Gaetano Turella.
In 1967, bishop Giuseppe Carraro (S. Felice belongs to the Diocese of Verona) proclaimed the Madonna the patroness of the entire Valtenesi. The current statue dates back to the 1600s.
During the last week of July, following a lengthy period of preparation through pilgrimages, the statue is carried around the town. The next day, the procession retraces the route in reverse. Meanwhile, the complex has been expanded and divided into three parts: the former convent, the socio-cultural center, and the pilgrims’ restaurant.
