Lake Garda’s Rare Carpione Fish: Traditional Boiling and Grilling Tips

The carpione is a fish exclusive to Lake Garda: it lives only in the waters of the Benaco region, although some insist that it can also be found in other lakes.

However, now there is hardly any carpione left. And to think that in ancient times it was used by the Serenissima as a diplomatic gift at princely courts all across Europe.

At the time, it was preserved fried and sprinkled with vinegar, then wrapped in bay leaves. Today, among the few fortunate enough to afford the rare luxury of eating it, there are two contrasting schools of thought.

Some say it should be cooked over a grill, while others insist it must be strictly boiled. Advocates of each approach are ready to argue fiercely.

Tips for preparing boiled carpione

Members of either side of the carpione debate should keep in mind two important warnings.

Let’s start with those who prefer boiling the carpione, a probably minority tendency. In this case, care must be taken to ensure that the court-bouillon is mild, not overly seasoned.

Additionally, the fish should be wrapped in a white cloth before being immersed in the cooking liquid. The carpione derives much of its delicacy from its tender flesh, so it must be treated delicately.

Furthermore, for such a rare and «legendary» fish, a touch of «ritual» doesn’t hurt.

Grilled carpione

And now to those who prefer their carpione on the grill, which is the majority.

In this case, the ritual involves slowly passing the fish over olivewood embers, brushing it with a little oil to prevent it from sticking to the hot skewers.

No rosemary, no sage, no garlic: you would ruin the gentle flavor of the meat.

Giorgio Gioco, a master of Veronese cuisine, explains: «Prepare a charcoal fire with olivewood, then place the cleaned carpione on the hot grill, just oiled a little. Turn it delicately without piercing with a fork, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. The carpione is cooked when, pressing with a finger, you feel the meat give way».

Final tips and variations

Once cooked, whether boiled or grilled, ensure that the dish contains nothing but the carpione itself—boiled or grilled—drizzled with a thin stream of Garda extra virgin olive oil.

No lemon, as it reheats the meat. And no melted butter, although some trattorias claim that it enhances the flavor.

There are also purists who refuse to listen, and they serve carpione after boiling it for half an hour, with a sauce made from salted lake sardines or anchovies or brine herring, after sprinkling the fillets with cinnamon.

It’s a good recipe, but preferably for less noble and rarer fishes. Gioco adds that «if, in addition to savoring the carpione, you’re fortunate enough to enjoy the lake view, you’ll understand how poets from all times have dedicated lyrics to this incomparable Benaco».